Friday 22 July 2011

Deep Water Soloing update





Well, after my successful Scillies crossing, for the majority of July, I turned my attention back to the excitement of Deep Water Soloing. In anticipation of the opening of Berry Head sea cliffs, (following the annual bird ban), in August, I put some mileage in on the sea crags over Torquay, with the Aqua Marina wall being my main training ground. However, there were a couple of routes that I'd wanted to bag before the end of the month, before Berry Head opened. First on the list was a route on London Arch, Torquay, called 'Atheist', an F6b+, which I'd tried last year but failed on. On 16th July conditions came together, with a WNW breeze and a sunny evening combined with a spring tide, so I took the opportunity to give it a go and was rewarded with a relatively easy ascent on my first attempt. Result! Next up, was a route that I wanted to have a go at called 'Arapiles Oh Arapiles', but didn't expect to send it very quickly as it is a F7a/7a+! This route is situated at Long Quarry Point, Torquay, in a very picturesque setting overlooking Anstey's cove, and is about 30 foot high with nice deep water below it. On my first session there I on-sighted the first half of the route up to the crux, and down climbed the last part of the route to figure out the last few moves. On my second visit, on 21st July, and armed with some beta on the crux moves, I discovered a hold I'd missed, and as a result managed to figure out the crux sequence. My first attempt of the day resulted in a splash-down from the crux moves again, but I had at least made it a few moves higher than last time. I knew straight away where I'd gone wrong, so after a rest and a change of shorts etc I gave it another go. I still wasn't expecting to do the route as the crux involves hard moves on very small crimps, but I surprised myself by making it to the first good jug beyond the technical crux with relative ease, and after flowing easily through the final few moves I arrived at the top barely pumped at all. I was amazed; almost stunned! It felt awesome and I'd done it! I was so stoked I let out a massive hoot of elation! I think the nearby fishermen wondered what the hell was going on?! It was by far the most satisfying route I've done to date. I can't really explain why, it just was. :) Really can't wait for Berry Head season now! I'm psyched! :D
All photos: James climbing 'Arapiles Oh Arapiles', F7a/7a+.

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