Might and Main

Mid December saw cool, dry and sunny conditions for about a week, allowing us to eagerly embark on a flurry of climbing activity over at Anstey's Cove, Torquay. 

On the first day there, myself and climbing partner Simon Kitchin found a nice warm up route called 'End of an Era', which is a F6a. After that we placed the quickdraws on an adjacent route called 'Time Bandits', F6c+, and I managed to flash the route on my second attempt (after a small fall on the first metre of climbing on the first attempt). Then it was onto 'Cocytus', E3 6a, (about F6c), which I led ground up on my second attempt. The first attempt didn't go too well, with one fall, and on reaching the second clip I realised I had no quickdraws on my harness, so I had to down-climb and jump, and then be lowered off again. On the successful lead, I found out that you were supposed to place some gear for protection in the upper part. The only problem was; I didn't have any with me, so I had to basically solo the last part of the route - meaning a fall from the last move at 40' would have probably resulted in me hitting the ground. But I didn't worry, because I knew I wasn't going to fall. 

A few days later I returned with my partner Elisabeth, where we had a pleasant afternoon in the sunshine climbing a couple of lovely Trad' routes. During a snack break we chatted to local climbing legend - Ken Palmer, and admired the stunning view from our elevated position, out across the beautiful cove below. 

The next route on my list was 'Might and Main', a 70' F6c+ up the stunning arete between the Empire Wall and the Mitre Buttress. I returned early the following morning with climbing partner Simon, and managed to send the route ground-up on my first proper attempt (after a half-hearted go at the first few moves, followed by a jump off). I really enjoyed this climb, and it seemed to suit my style of climbing; involving lots of steep, powerful, bouldery and technical moves, that were broken up by good rests in between. Perfect! I wouldn't say it was an easy climb, but I led it more easily than I have other's at this grade, and did it smoothly and in good style. It felt good; darn good! Loved it! Woohoo! Happy Days! :) 

Looks like it's onto F7a's next then?!?!?!?!? :O

Photo courtesy of Simon Kitchin. Climber: James Mitchelmore lowering off 'Might and Main'.

November's Activities

Well, the weather in November wasn't the best with some wet weather to start, followed by much colder conditions to finish. We managed to get some white water kayaking in on the River Dart whilst the levels were up, which was nice. Then, on a brief warm and sunny day in the middle of the month, we managed to get to Chudleigh for a bit of lead climbing. I'd wanted to climb a route called 'The Spider', an E1 5b, for some time now, and finally decided to give it a go. The first pitch was great, if a little run-out on the final slab. Pitch two contained an exposed crux near the top of the 100 foot route. When I reached this point, I discovered that there was quite a lot of water seepage - not ideal!  The climbing was hard enough here, being overhanging on small-ish holds, without the rock being all wet! After placing some protection I gave the last portion of the route a go, managing to make it up and over to, and across the delicate slab, to the safety of an old tree stump - though not without a remarkable struggle! It was one hell of a battle, but I finally emerged triumphant onto the top of the crag in glorious sunshine! Yahoo! Fantastic! :) During the latter part of November, much of our climbing activities took place within the warmth and dry of the DartRock Climbing Centre, near Buckfastleigh. This is a superb venue to train in, work on your technique, strength and climbing skills, and bang out some great routes with your friends. And they have nice tea and cakes too! Ideal! :) Can't wait for my next session!