Saturday 30 April 2011

April Update


Well, what a month April has been - such fantastic hot sunny weather! Earlier on in the month, and fresh from our climbing trip to Spain, I had a good burn on the superb Anstey's Cove F7b sport route 'Empire of the Sun', linking all the crux moves and on-sighting the top half. Awesome! I am hoping to put a few more hours into the route, with the aim of sending it later this year. As the hot weather increased we moved to the shade of Churston Quarries for some sport and esoterica climbing. After an easy ascent of 'Supercalorific', I then led the run-out E3 5b, 'Walking Tall'. This is another fantastic route, but due to the lack of gear in the upper half a slip from the last few moves would result in a ground fall, so you'd better not mess up! Still the sun shone brightly, so I turned my attention to my real climbing passion - Deep Water Soloing (DWS), or Psicobloc. Plenty of superb sessions were had over Torquay climbing the many classic routes on quality rock in amazingly warm and sunny conditions. It was like summer, and I was in my element! Stoked! ;) I also cleaned up, and soloed a great route down on the edge of Brixham Quarry called 'Pigeon Street', an F6a+. It featured steep juggy climbing with an overhanging crux right at the top, which I thoroughly enjoyed. So much so, that I repeated it three times! Love it! :) Now eagerly awaiting my next DWS session! What I love about Psicobloc, is the absolute freedom and pure climbing movement - just you and the rock, and no-one and nothing else. :)
Photo: Elisabeth on 'Watchtower Traverse', F5.

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