Following a wicked bouldering session at Dartrock climbing centre I was soon on the road travelling west with our dog Guinness, praying that the surf would be as good as predicted.
Arriving around lunchtime on the Wednesday I discovered that the surf was pretty big and a little messy in the cross-onshore winds with no-one out, which was a bit of a give away that it wasn't very good. Still, it was the Thursday that was meant to be the best day, so I bided my time with a few coastal walks with the dog and crossed my fingers that it would be better by morning.
I wasn't dissapointed when I checked the surf first thing in the morning; it was solid overhead and super-clean in a light offshore wind - perfect! I was so amped to get out there, but first I had to walk the dog while I waited for the tide to fill in a little bit. The sun was shining and it looked to be a beautiful day!
I paddled out mid-morning on what I ended up calling 'Epic Thursday', and surfed for over two hours in superb conditions. The set waves were big and powerful and I scored plenty of top quality rides, mostly on the long reeling lefts that rolled through. I took some super-late drops, cranked some awesome bottom-turns and blasted at high speed along some big fast walls of water, dodging the odd section and carving a few cutbacks when the waves allowed. I was hooting for joy and had a massive smile on my face at the end of each ride - super-stoked! Woohoo!!! :D
I didn't really want to come in but I had to grab a bite to eat and take the dog for a quick stroll before I could get out and hit it again. The great thing was; it wasn't all that crowded, with maybe a total of a dozen surfers out at one time, and they were spread out too which allowed me to catch pretty much any wave I wanted, which was fantastic!
I surfed again for another couple of hours in the afternoon with the conditions remaining pretty much the same as the morning session. I was in my element scoring one awesome wave after another, getting some insane rides, and even getting other surfers woop-wooping some of them too. I was buzzing! I didn't really want to come in, but eventually the tide dropped out causing the waves to close out somewhat, and by that time I was basically shattered anyway, so I caught a last good ride in and hiked back to the van for much needed cuppa and a bite to eat again.
Later that evening I took a long walk along the beach with Guinness and watched the sun set over the sea, reflecting on all of the good rides I had that day, and day-dreaming of more quality surf sessions like that in the future. It had been an epic and awesome day of surf for me and I was super-amped for more! :)
Next morning I had a quick surf in some not quite so good conditions before heading off on the long drive back and an evening of work. Still, at least I could mind-surf some of the rides I'd had to get through the shift, and I was still on a massive high so it all went pretty well really.
Can't wait to ride some more waves like that again so I'm regularly checking the surf forecasts now in eager anticipation of scoring some more super surf in the not too distant future. :D
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