Might and Main

Mid December saw cool, dry and sunny conditions for about a week, allowing us to eagerly embark on a flurry of climbing activity over at Anstey's Cove, Torquay. 

On the first day there, myself and climbing partner Simon Kitchin found a nice warm up route called 'End of an Era', which is a F6a. After that we placed the quickdraws on an adjacent route called 'Time Bandits', F6c+, and I managed to flash the route on my second attempt (after a small fall on the first metre of climbing on the first attempt). Then it was onto 'Cocytus', E3 6a, (about F6c), which I led ground up on my second attempt. The first attempt didn't go too well, with one fall, and on reaching the second clip I realised I had no quickdraws on my harness, so I had to down-climb and jump, and then be lowered off again. On the successful lead, I found out that you were supposed to place some gear for protection in the upper part. The only problem was; I didn't have any with me, so I had to basically solo the last part of the route - meaning a fall from the last move at 40' would have probably resulted in me hitting the ground. But I didn't worry, because I knew I wasn't going to fall. 

A few days later I returned with my partner Elisabeth, where we had a pleasant afternoon in the sunshine climbing a couple of lovely Trad' routes. During a snack break we chatted to local climbing legend - Ken Palmer, and admired the stunning view from our elevated position, out across the beautiful cove below. 

The next route on my list was 'Might and Main', a 70' F6c+ up the stunning arete between the Empire Wall and the Mitre Buttress. I returned early the following morning with climbing partner Simon, and managed to send the route ground-up on my first proper attempt (after a half-hearted go at the first few moves, followed by a jump off). I really enjoyed this climb, and it seemed to suit my style of climbing; involving lots of steep, powerful, bouldery and technical moves, that were broken up by good rests in between. Perfect! I wouldn't say it was an easy climb, but I led it more easily than I have other's at this grade, and did it smoothly and in good style. It felt good; darn good! Loved it! Woohoo! Happy Days! :) 

Looks like it's onto F7a's next then?!?!?!?!? :O

Photo courtesy of Simon Kitchin. Climber: James Mitchelmore lowering off 'Might and Main'.