February Climbing Update

With the weather being wet for most of February, but not wet enough for much river paddling, most of our climbing took place at 'Dart Rock' this month, featuring lots of routes to build endurance and a clean ascent of a F7a route that I'd been working on for a few weeks. Result! 

On the 24th the sun finally shone, and we wasted no time in heading over to Telegraph Hole, Torquay, to try my luck leading an E3 5c there called 'Flash Dance'. I had previously inspected the route to get the gear sorted for the crux, which was protected by small wires, and also fixed rope soloed it to see if it was possible for me. On the day, I discovered there was seepage on the last. and hardest, section - not ideal. On the first attempt I fell here due to a wet hold, after leading and placing gear up to this point. I was mightily annoyed! On my second attempt, I took a 20 foot fall onto one of my small wires, jamming it tightly into the small crack. Good job it held! I dried the wet hold/s as best I could, and decided to give it one more go. After composing myself, and a short rest, I set off again. This time, I made it smoothly and quickly up to the slight rest point just before the final hard section, clipping the pegs and my stuck wire en route. I took time to visualise the last few hard moves, before setting off strongly for the top. Frustratingly, the hold was wet again due to the seepage, and a superb foothold was also out of bounds as it was also wet. This made the final section much harder, as I not only had to use much smaller holds instead, but I also had to wipe the wet hand-hold off and re chalk it up as I climbed past. However, I was determined to send the route, so I dug deep, focused, and committed myself to make it happen! After a physical and mental battle for a few metres, I finally clipped the last peg, and shortly after that made it happily to the top of the route. Hallelujah!!! 

'Flash Dance' is a very bold climb, with delicate, balancey moves on small holds, and is not my preferred style of climbing, which made my successful ascent much more satisfying for me.

Following a spot of lunch, we moved camp to the main sea cliffs of Daddy Hole, and after abseiling into the base of the cliffs I led a route called 'Good Dog'. Graded E1 5b, I found the route actually much harder due to a good portion of it being wet, and the upper part scarily loose. Anyway, after an almighty struggle I made it to the top of the route, notching up another E1 on-sight in the process. 'Good Dog' actually had some good varied climbing in it, and would have been much better in dryer conditions. 

Photos are of the route: 'Flash Dance', E3 5c.

New Year, New Routes, New Waves

Mid-January saw a sunny and calm period with light winds, if a little on the cold side. That, combined with some decent ground swell, provided some perfect surfing conditions. As a warm up to the North Coast, a cheeky little early morning surf was had down Bantham in 3'+ clean waves, with some super fun waves to be had. Two days later, and I was up at 0430 for the long drive down to Perranporth in Cornwall. I arrived just before 0700 and was over the moon to find the surf forecasts correct, with clean overhead waves in the six foot plus range. I couldn't get changed fast enough, and was soon jumping off the rocks for the paddle out before first light. With fantastic surf, and no one else out, I had an amazing two hour surf to myself - with every wave to choose from, I was like a kid in a candy store! Wave after wave, I surfed the solid powerful waves, and had some insane rides - steep drops, cranking bottom turns, high speed down the line rides and gouging cutbacks. I was in heaven! Stoked for sure! :)

The calm, dry, and sunny conditions were also perfect for a spot of climbing too, and once the surf had gone flat, I wasted no time in heading over to Anstey's Cove in Torquay to get my climbing fix. Having already pre-inspected a route called 'The Lumpy Universe', an E3 5c, I could barely contain myself to actually send it. Without a doubt, this is my new 'favourite route' - with some amazing climbing snaking its way up a huge, fairly blank looking, impressive wall in a kind of massive amphitheatre high above the cove. The whole route was fantastic, providing good hard technical climbing, broken up by some nice rest spots, which was perfect for me. The route was a delight from start to finish, due in part to my very relaxed state of mind (the surfing maybe?), and as a result my climbing flowed really well, and I enjoyed every minute of it. Well, until I'd completed the route and it was over, anyway. ;)

On a couple of other days, I on-sighted an HVS 5a called 'Acheron', and an E1 5b called 'Moonshot'. Both were good routes, but not a patch on 'The Lumpy Universe'! :)